Fine burnished gold, apt for a 30 year old Champagne – alive and kicking. What impresses is the fresh Chardonnay, which balances the opulence of 1990 mature Pinot opulence. A lovely interplay of those peach & quince flavours with enlivening citrus repertoire, especially citron confit; still long & vigorous. Model post-disgorgement ageing since 2003. A wine for venison and even foie gras.